At the end of a battered path, a lonely sharecropping farm stands out in the middle of a herd of tame cows. This 16th C. farm has no electricity, but instead a prominent old wood stove in the middle of the dining room. Encouraging a sense of conviviality, everyone eats side by side at long wooden tables. Dishes such as garlic fondue, ham off the bone, sausage and chops cooked over a wood stove. Home-made dishes that'll make you get up in the night. The desserts are also worth the trip with a menu that offers lemon tarts, generous cream horns and meringues. A little digestif? Do not do without this: the quince liqueur is a real marvel. And if you don't want to get back on the road or if you thought of bringing your tent (the tepees were unfortunately sold), don't worry: the owners will allow you to spend the night in their fields.

Information and contact: http://www.metairie-aarberg.ch

Métairie d'Aarberg, Clémesin, 2057 Villiers, Tel. + 41 (0)32 751 34 22. Open everyday from June to August. Closed on Monday.  Locate

Suggested walks:

The Chasseral Ridge - From Villiers, climb up the Combe Biosse to the summit. Then head back down through forests and pasturelands towards Lignières. You will enjoy the very unique Chasseral mountain on this walk. In total, count for a 5-hour walk (bus from Lignières to Landeron, then train to Neuchâtel).

On llama-back - For a very « Andes »  experience, take a short ride with these strong-willed animals - they don't normally spit, or if they do, only against their congeners. André Steiner offers 1-hour walks or several-day treks.

Llama Trekking, André Steiner, Verger-Banderet 1, 2063 Fenin, Tel + 41 (0)32 853 53 19/(0)79 633 48 53.

Did you know? - Created in 2001 by about fifteen communes, the  « Parc Chasseral » set as its mission to manage the Chasseral mountains, which a good half-million people cross every year. Among the current projects is a program to loosen the forests in order to allow the capercaillie to develop and to reintroduce the « yellow lady's-slipper»  orchid. In a more strictly tourist sense, the Parc Chasseral has also set up a route of tastes and flavours  (for more information).