Franck Decrenisse is an adventurer! 37 years old, this non-standard wine-producer from Les Coteaux-du-Lyonnais carries the same lively and mischievous expression as do his wines. He dares to take risks in order to bring his customers pure pleasure!

After completing his oenology degree and experimenting with Cognac and Beaujolais wines, Franck Decrenisse returned to his family's property in Chasselay in 1993 and started running the 16ha vineyard, Le Petit Fromentin estate. « Everyone compares Les Coteaux-du-Lyonnais wines to Beaujolais wines. But even though they both share the same Gamay vine, the « AOC » Coteaux-du-Lyonnais is truly the highest northern designation from the Rhône Valley, where the soil is made up of gravel and flint.» This is what makes the difference!

Franck loves the Gamay vine. So much so that he even created the « Conservatoire National du Gamay, »the only of its kind in France. It houses 800 different Gamay varieties, not counting the 500 new varieties that are soon to be added to the Conservatoire. But the adventure doesn't end here!

Franck Decrenisse is convinced that the Monts d'Or, which used to be covered in vines, has excellent soil. He created the brand « Vins des Monts d'Or,» and grows Chardonnay, Viognier, Pinot Noir and Syrah vines on a 1ha plot in Saint Romain-au-Mont d'Or, where the terraced land is full of white limestone.

In fact, you must try his vintage « Saromagnotte blanc."»(The Saromagnots are the residents of St. Romain-au-Mont d'Or). 50% Chardonnay and 50% Viognier, this vintage has a distinct apple bouquet, a strong mineral-ness, and is fresh and delicate (5 Euros).

Among Le Coteaux-du-Lyonnais wines, try the white vintage « Probus:» a Chardonnay matured on the dregs of several wines in oak tree trunks. A flavoursome bouquet of buttered caramel, rich, full, sappy and smooth, a beautiful savour (4.50 Euros for the 2006 vintage). The Gamay vine was previously called Probus, in honour of the Roman Emperor Probus, who planted this vine.

Among the red Coteaux-du-Lyonnais wines, the vintage « Chateauvieux » is made from more than 60 year old Gamay vines. A bouquet of acidulous red berries (morello cherry, redcurrant, raspberry). A soft wine, easy to drink, a beautiful mineral-ness that gives its character (3.90 Euros for the 2006 vintage).

You must try the vintage « Quetzal,» a late and rare Chardonnay and Viognier harvest, fresh and sweet, bewitching pineapple and apricot fragrance, mildly priced (8 Euros).

by Laurent Turrel, © www.nuncbibendum.com 2007