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 Even though the Beaujolais wines are still trying to figure out their new identity, a few of these wine-producers have created their own identity. Well-rooted, exclusive quality wine, natural wine-growing methods, authentic, crisp, fruity. This new Beaujolais trend finds its expression in one of its masters: the famous Marcel Lapierre, producer of one of the tastiest, most famous Morgon wines ever.
The estate was created in the 1900s by Marcel Lapierre's grandfather. As the years passed, the estate grew in size (11ha). At the beginning of the 80s, the estate became interested in the work of researcher Jules Chauvet, who is known for his gentle, minimal-intervention method of farming and wine preparation, which was light-years away from the accepted vineyard practices of the time. As expected, Jules Chauvet was taken for a fool. But taking one year with the next, he never lost sight, and today his decision has proven to be the right one.
Marcel Lapierre avoids the use of chemical products in his vineyards as much as possible and prefers natural methods of farming (organic and biodynamic). In his wine-making process, he uses only native yeasts and hardly ever treats with sulphur. During the grape harvesting, the best grapes are manually sorted for correct maturity. These Morgon wines are superb, full of fruit and varying aromas (cherry, liquorice, violets). Crisp and fresh, they evoke Morgon's famous «rotten rocks» soil, which is actually made of decomposed granite, and is the reason behind the particular «morgonner" taste.
Today Marcel Lapierre's son, Mathieu, is gradually taking over the estate and maintaining the same philosophy of natural wines. He'll surely continue to treat us for years to come.
Suggested wines:
1) Red «Morgon Nature» 2005: a totally natural vintage, no filtration, no sulphur treatment, obviously producing a delicate wine that must be stored away from sunlight and below 14°C. It's important to have a good cellar. Watch out if you're uninformed, as this wine is still actively alive and can change its characteristics drastically. You have to be aware of these changes, as this is the very essence of natural wines.
2) «Morgon Traditionnelle»2005: the same wine, unfiltered, but treated with sulphur dioxide as a stabilizing agent. This version is less delicate, less unpredictable and more stable as time goes by. It still maintains the richness and fruity flavour of the natural vintage, but is better suited for those who don't have good cellars or don't want to take any risks.
by Laurent Turrel, © www.nuncbibendum.com
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