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La Goulisse Claire, at 47 Cours Marietton in Lyon, in the quartier de Vaise neighbourhood (9th Arrondissement). As is often the case in the world of wine, everything is born out of a passion! Gérard was 14 years old when he lost his godfather and consequently inherited a fabulous cellar with several very fine wines. The young boy felt embarrassed, not knowing what to do with this legacy. He laid it aside for a while, still keeping an eye on the bottles from a distance, while he began gathering information on wines. So starts a beautiful story...
When he was old enough to work, Gérard decided to go into the textile business, where he presided for close to 30 years. However, his taste for wine was decided upon. During his commercial rounds, he always managed to visit different French vineyards, try wines from particular wine-producers he had heard about, and discuss with them and perfect his knowledge of wine. As time passed, Gérard developed strong ties with certain wine-producers. At the age of 50, he decided to change course and do what he really enjoyed doing. He originally wanted to open a guest house with a fixed menu in the countryside, but he finally changed his mind. Instead he entered his nephew's family business, « Aux Vins de Sébastien,» a group of cellars in Civrieux and Massieux, in the Lyon region.
In 2005, he bought an address in Lyon-Vaise, on Cours Marietton. It was a popular neighbourhood which soon changed its look and welcomed a new population of « Bobos » (moving middle-class), who weren't able to find their place in the neighbourhood of La Croix-Rousse, which had become inaccessible. So Gérard decided to free himself from Sébastien's wines and to offer his own selection of wines. He opened « La Goulisse Claire.»
La Goulisse? Kézako? This is a word Gérard invented years ago, while he was sampling wines with his friends. It didn't mean anything in particular, but it sounded rather professional and always impressed his friends. « Ah! This wine is a bloody 'goulisse'! »
The cellar offers wines that come directly from the wine-producers, not from cooperative cellars and not from wine trades. Only from exceptional wine-producers whom Gérard discovered here and there, based on his own tastes and philosophy. Gérard likes authentic wines more than any, which is why he stresses on natural wines, made with native yeasts, and no filtering or fining. The result is woody wines. He enjoys showcasing wine-producers who aren't yet known, but who will surely be in the headlines soon enough. Gérard is a talent spotter. Gérard spends every Monday and Tuesday, which are cellar holidays, in the vineyard. He observes and tastes, and learns about new private wine-producers. He's got a knack for soil. The far-removed wine-making jamboree that takes place in VinExpos isn't a part of his world.
Come to La Goulisse, and buy a bottle recommended by Gérard. Taste a few of his wines at the bar. Open Wednesday to Saturday, 10:30am to 10:30pm, and on Sunday from 10:00am to 2:30pm. And don't miss the grand weekly event. Every Thursday at noon, for 20 Euros you can enjoy a regionally concocted menu, with a good selection of wines. But shhh, it's confidential, and there's only room for 12 people! A piece of advice: reserve quickly!
Here are 3 wines that Gérard recommends for the summer.
- « Pays du Var» rosé, Pinchinat estate, Vénus de Pinchinat vintage. An organic wine, fresh and crisp fruit, Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault base. 5.90 Euros.
- Natural village Beaujolais 2006, Marylou de Max Breton vintage. No fining, filtering, or sulphur treatment during bottling. Taste its pure state! 8.90 Euros.
- Very rare and fantastic organic 2005 Clairette de Bellegarde (a still, white wine), Terre de Chardons estate. Try in the late afternoon under a lime-tree!
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